Ever Onwards

I can't not say something about yesterday's visit to Hiroshima but Mac has very eloquently summed it up. Like everything and everywhere in Japan, it is characterised by contrasts – the stark ruins of the A-Bomb Dome ( Genbaku) now sits in the midst of a rebuilt, vibrant city; the Memorial Gardens both a heartbreaking commemoration of what happened in 1945 and a testomony to human spirit; a lesson learned and a warning given to the rest of the world about the horrors of nuclear war.

But it was time to leave the island and head back to Tokyo and ever closer to the airport. The six-hour journey was by boat, tram and bullet train and it allowed us to take our last look at the Japanese countryside as we hurtled our way back to the big smoke of Tokyo. Once again, our jaws had to be picked up from the ground when we saw our final hotel. It is in a skyscraper called Southern Tower, in the heart of Shinjuku and the foyer is on the 20th floor. We're on the 34th floor so you can imagine the view. Even going up in the glass elevator is thrilling – but then again, it doesn't take a lot to thrill me! This is where the film “Lost in Translation” was made and Shinjuku by night is like stepping into the film. It is a hive of activity: shops; red light district; clubs; restaurants – this is the Soho of Tokyo and I love it.

Tomorrow's our last day – I don't want to go home. Normally a week or 10 days is enough for me but I don't want this to end. Anyway, I'm not going to spoil my penultimate night by moaning – I'm going to enjoy the last dregs of this holiday, in the hotel bar, on the 40th floor, up in the sky. Another gin and tonic, bar-tender and make it a large one!